Deck 19: Shores and Coastal Processes

Question 1

The movement of sand along a beach face is called:

A) longshore drift.
B) longshore current.
C) beach current.
D) beach drift.

Answer 1

D

Question 2

A flood tide that with a rapid and turbulent upstream movement is called a:

A) reverse flood tide.
B) tidal bore.
C) reverse current.
D) tidal flood.

Answer 2

B

Question 3

The principal mechanism by which waves erode coastlines is:

A) dissolution.
B) abrasion by the sediment load.
C) by forcing water and air under high pressure into rock crevices.
D) the force of the water battering the rocks.

Answer 3

C

Question 4

The vertical tidal range would probably be the largest:

A) in a bay or estuary.
B) along a straight coastline.
C) on an island in the middle of the ocean.
D) in a large inland lake.

Question 5

The main difference between a primary coast and a secondary coast is:

A) primary coasts represent the main coastline, while secondary coasts are the shoreline within coastal inlets.
B) primary coasts are shaped principally by nonmarine processes, while secondary coasts are shaped primarily by marine processes.
C) primary coasts are relatively even, smooth coastlines, while secondary coasts are characterized by numerous headlands and inlets.
D) primary coasts are much longer than secondary coasts.

Question 6

Erosional features such as sea stacks and wave- cut benches are commonly associated with:

A) transform fault boundaries.
B) coasts lined with barrier islands.
C) older, passive continental margins.
D) recently rifted divergent plate boundaries.

Question 7

All of the following statements concerning seawalls are true EXCEPT:

A) seawalls disrupt movement of sediment that nourishes beaches.
B) seawalls cause an interruption in longshore currents.
C) a seawall causes a buildup of sand and sediment immediately seaward of itself.
D) seawalls accelerate erosion in other coastal areas where waves have been refocused.

Question 8

Erosion of an irregular coastline begins with:

A) sea stacks.
B) sea caves.
C) headlands.
D) wave- cut benches.

Question 9

Concentration of wave energy produces:

A) transportation of rock and sand.
B) coastal swamps and salt marshes.
C) deposition of rock and sand.
D) erosion of rock and sand.

Question 10

Variations in the eastern United States coastal topography are primarily due to:

A) the redistribution of wave action by barrier islands.
B) inundation of stream valleys as sea level rises.
C) past glacial activity and diverse bedrock composition.
D) submergence due to the weight of continentally derived sediments.

Question 11

All of the following were benefits of the 1987 winter storm at Nauset Beach EXCEPT:

A) a shortened approach to the open ocean.
B) flushing of coastal dune septic fields.
C) influx of seawater that revitalized aquatic life.
D) removal of 20 meters of beach.

Question 12

At North Carolina's Bodie Island, what process threatens the economy of the local population?

A) Downcoast transportation of sediment.
B) Coastal erosion of sediment.
C) Coastal erosion of headlands.
D) Coastal deposition of sediment.

Question 13

The best way to protect coastal communities from destruction would be:

A) beach nourishment projects.
B) strategic retreat in the form of coastal property purchases by environmental groups.
C) construction of massive seawalls.
D) construction of barriers that intercept longshore currents.

Question 14

All of the following factors contribute to the erosion of Lake Michigan's eastern coastline EXCEPT:

A) record low water levels in Lake Michigan.
B) recent warm winters have lacked the usual ice- protection from winter storms.
C) the shoreline is composed of nonresistant glacial sediments.
D) extensive storm fetch exists across Lake Michigan to the eastern shore.

Question 15

The most likely location for the formation of a spit is:

A) at the base of a cliff.
B) seaward from a barrier island.
C) at the entrance to a bay.
D) landward from a sea stack.

Question 16

Which of the following statements about mangrove swamps is NOT true?

A) Mangrove swamps help to extend the coastline seaward.
B) Mangroves grow an extensive root system that dissipates much of the energy of waves.
C) Mangroves live in standing tidal water in tropical climates.
D) Many mangrove swamps are endangered by coastal erosion.

Question 17

Which of the following statements about barrier islands is NOT true?

A) Due to migration processes, they eventually overrun mainland coasts.
B) They line the East Coast for 850 miles and the Gulf Coast for an additional 850 miles.
C) They migrate inland at a rate that ranges from 0.5 to 2 meters per year.
D) They may be as much as 20 feet above sea level.

Question 18

The velocity of ocean waves is typically on the order of:

A) 200 to 300 kilometers per hour.
B) 1 to 20 kilometers per hour.
C) 30 to 90 kilometers per hour.
D) 500 to 800 meters per hour.

Question 19

Reef organisms are limited geographically by which of the following factors?

A) Warm- water requirements tend to limit their growth to latitudes between 30° north to 25° south.
B) Growth near the surface is primarily due to their production of food through photosynthesis.
C) Their mode of filter feeding helps them to filter quantities of suspended particles from water.
D) Their need for a reduction in salinity is provided by dilution from freshwater systems.

Question 20

Which of the following statements about beaches is NOT true?

A) A berm is a horizontal bench or mound deposited by storm waves.
B) The beach face is the portion of the beach visible at high tide.
C) The backshore extends from the high- tide line to the sea cliff or vegetation line.
D) The foreshore extends from the low- to the high- tide line.

Question 21

Waves are produced by:

A) the action of wind.
B) the gravitational pull of the Moon.
C) the rotation of the Earth.
D) the gravitational pull of the Sun.

Question 22

Erosion of the Southern California coastline is a result of all the following factors EXCEPT:

A) the rise in sea level due to global warming.
B) narrow beaches expose sea cliffs to erosion.
C) mudslides add to the width of the coastline.
D) inland dams trap sediments that could replenish beaches.

Question 23

Which of the following statements about the motion of water within a wave is NOT true?

A) The water within a mid- ocean wave has an oscillatory motion.
B) The water within a mid- ocean wave travels toward a shoreline with a circular motion.
C) The water within a surf zone moves toward the beach.
D) The water within a surf zone travels with translatory motion.

Question 24

Waves would tend to deposit their sediment load in all of the following situations EXCEPT:

A) when being channeled into a bay.
B) upon encountering an artificial barrier.
C) an abrupt decrease in water depth.
D) a decrease in wind velocity.

Question 25

Erosion of the Cape Hatteras beaches is due primarily to:

A) storm waves breaching the 10- meter high dunes.
B) storm waves breaching the low dunes back from the beach.
C) storm waves overrunning the salt marshes behind the dunes.
D) storm waves deflected off the 10- meter high dunes.

Question 26

Wave refraction refers to:

A) the bending of waves by constructive or destructive interference, as the waves encounter other waves.
B) the change within an ocean wave from oscillatory motion to translatory motion.
C) the bending of the direction of travel of waves as part of the wave front drags bottom.
D) the bending of waves until they break, or fracture, to become breakers within the surf zone.

Question 27

Which of the following wave depositional landforms lies seaward from the coast line?

A) A baymouth bar.
B) A spit.
C) A tombolo.
D) A hook.

Question 28

Longshore currents are propelled by:

A) tidal fluctuations.
B) wave refraction.
C) the zigzag motion of swash and backwash.
D) destructive interference between currents.

Question 29

Most beach sediment originates:

A) in the offshore surf zone.
B) at the ocean floor.
C) from headlands and beach cliffs.
D) inland and upland.

Question 30

Which of the following is not considered a theory of the origin of barrier islands?

A) Barrier islands are sand deposits derived from beaches and deposited seaward by backwash.
B) Barrier islands are elongated spits that have been separated from the mainland.
C) Barrier islands are sand deposits derived from the continental shelves and deposited by waves.
D) Barrier islands are remnant sand dunes that existed when the sea level was lower.

Question 31

Which man- made structure is built in pairs to extend the banks of a stream beyond the coastline?

A) Breakwater.
B) Groin.
C) Jetty.
D) Spit.

Question 32

All of the following are damaging effects of human impact on barrier islands EXCEPT:

A) upcoast construction of jetties.
B) leveling of frontal dunes to provide a better beach view.
C) designation of barrier islands as wildlife preserves.
D) construction of hotels and casinos.

Question 33

Two high tides occur on opposite sides of the Earth because:

A) of the rotation of the Earth and the gravitational pull of the Moon.
B) one is in the Southern Hemisphere and one is in the Northern Hemisphere.
C) of the revolution of the Moon around the Earth.
D) one is caused by the Moon and one by the Sun.

Question 34

The Sun's proportional influence over tides is best explained by the fact that:

A) gravitational influence decreases as distance increases
B) solar warming initiates movement of water molecules.
C) the Sun is larger than the Moon.
D) only one side of the Earth is facing the Sun at any given time.

Question 35

All of the following conditions increase the erosion of coastlines EXCEPT:

A) coastlines oriented perpendicular to the dominant wind direction.
B) soft or fractured bedrock.
C) coastlines with prominent headlands.
D) coastlines that are gently sloping.

Question 36

Constructive interference of waves may occur when:

A) waves with similar velocities and periods have become synchronized.
B) waves with different velocities and periods have become synchronized.
C) waves with different velocities and periods have become unsynchronized.
D) waves with similar velocities and periods have become unsynchronized.

Question 37

Which of the following statements about beach nourishment is NOT true?

A) Beach nourishment requires expert knowledge and planning to be successful.
B) Inland dams may be directly responsible for the shrinkage of a beach and the need for beach nourishment.
C) Many beach nourishment projects are destroyed by natural forces.
D) Importing sediments for beach nourishment is usually an economical means for maintaining a beach.

Question 38

Which man- made structure is designed specifically to interrupt the longshore drift and trap sand?

A) Groin.
B) Jetty.
C) Spit.
D) Breakwater.

Question 39

A beach is defined as:

A) the precise boundary where a body of water meets dry land.
B) the strip of coast closest to a sea or lake.
C) a sandy strip of land.
D) the entire region bordering a body of water.

Question 40

Due to the influence of fetch on the production of ocean waves, the largest wave would be expected to occur:

A) in the northern parts of any ocean.
B) in the ocean south of the southern tip of South America.
C) in the Pacific Ocean at the equator.
D) in the Atlantic Ocean between Africa and northern South America.

Question 41

Discuss how specific plate- tectonic settings affect coastal landforms.

Question 42

What are the benefits and the drawbacks of beach nourishment projects?

Question 43

Differentiate between primary and secondary coasts.

Question 44

Describe the mechanism and controlling factors of wave erosion.

Question 45

Discuss both local and global factors that influence change in sea level.

Question 46

Describe the methods used to protect coasts from wave erosion.

Question 47

How does wave erosion produce sea caves, sea arches, and sea stacks?

Question 48

How can the protected coastline around Cape Hatteras, North Carolina be losing its beach, while the unprotected coastline around Cape Lookout be naturally maintained?

Question 49

How can mangrove forests extend their land area on an otherwise eroding coast?

Question 50

What factors govern the characteristics of an ocean wave?