Deck 8: Waves and Water Dynamics

Question 1

The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength.

Answer 1

False

Question 2

The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period.

Answer 2

False

Question 3

Internal waves are formed by the movement of water of different densities along an air-water interface.

Answer 3

False

Question 4

Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)wavelength/20
B)1/period
C)steepness = 1:7
D)5.67 E)1.25 F)wavelength/period
G)wave height
H)wavelength/2
deepest water depth of the circular motion of water molecules

Question 5

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)movement of air across the air-water interface
B)destructive interference
C)movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D)the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E)movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F)waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G)constructive interference
H)reflection
atmospheric waves

Question 6

Waves at the ocean surface are called orbital or interface waves.

Question 7

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)movement of air across the air-water interface
B)destructive interference
C)movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D)the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E)movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F)waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G)constructive interference
H)reflection
disturbing force

Question 8

The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.

Question 9

Wind speed, duration, and fetch are the three conditions necessary to produce a fully developed sea.

Question 10

Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)wavelength/20
B)1/period
C)steepness = 1:7
D)5.67 E)1.25 F)wavelength/period
G)wave height
H)wavelength/2
deep-water wave speed (S)

Question 11

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)movement of air across the air-water interface
B)destructive interference
C)movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D)the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E)movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F)waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G)constructive interference
H)reflection
orbital waves

Question 12

Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)wavelength/20
B)1/period
C)steepness = 1:7
D)5.67 E)1.25 F)wavelength/period
G)wave height
H)wavelength/2
ratio of wave height to wavelength at which waves break

Question 13

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)movement of air across the air-water interface
B)destructive interference
C)movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D)the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E)movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F)waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G)constructive interference
H)reflection
internal wave

Question 14

Deep-water waves move faster than shallow water waves because they are not slowed by friction with the ocean bottom.

Question 15

A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters.

Question 16

The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height.

Question 17

Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)wavelength/20
B)1/period
C)steepness = 1:7
D)5.67 E)1.25 F)wavelength/period
G)wave height
H)wavelength/2
diameter of orbital wave at the surface

Question 18

Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)wavelength/20
B)1/period
C)steepness = 1:7
D)5.67 E)1.25 F)wavelength/period
G)wave height
H)wavelength/2
minimum depth for generation of deep-water waves

Question 19

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all.

A)movement of air across the air-water interface
B)destructive interference
C)movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D)the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E)movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F)waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G)constructive interference
H)reflection
ocean waves

Question 20

A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves.

Question 21

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.

The crest is the portion of the wave corresponding to the number:

A)1)
B)2)
C)3)
D)4)
E)5)

Question 22

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.

The portion of the wave that is also known as the zero energy level is indicated by the number:

A)1)
B)2)
C)3)
D)4)
E)5)

Question 23

The time between two successive waves is called the:

A)crest.
B)frequency.
C)height.
D)period.
E)trough.

Question 24

The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area.

Question 25

The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami is imminent.

Question 26

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.

The trough of the wave corresponds to the number:

A)1)
B)2)
C)3)
D)4)
E)5)

Question 27

A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.

Question 28

Water waves are:

A)capillary waves.
B)longitudinal waves.
C)refracted waves.
D)orbital waves.
E)transverse waves.

Question 29

Tsunamis can be generated by geological activity that causes a sudden change in sea floor elevation such as submarine fault motion.

Question 30

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.

The wavelength is labeled with the number:

A)1)
B)2)
C)3)
D)4)
E)5)

Question 31

An internal wave might form:

A)at a density boundary within the ocean.
B)at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean.
C)at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor.
D)close to shore as it moves into shallow water.
E)only as a result of tidal activity.

Question 32

The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the:

A)frequency.
B)period.
C)wave height.
D)wavelength.
E)wave steepness.

Question 33

A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20.

Question 34

Wave speed is equal to:

A)wave height divided by frequency.
B)wave height divided by period.
C)wavelength divided by fetch.
D)wavelength divided by frequency.
E)wavelength divided by period.

Question 35

Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction.

Question 36

Tsunamis travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean.

Question 37

A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection.

Question 38

Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells.

Question 39

Most ocean waves form as a result of:

A)seismic events.
B)winds blowing across the ocean surface.
C)landslides.
D)density differences between water layers.
E)Earth's rotation.

Question 40

A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche.

Question 41

The fetch refers to:

A)a method of shoreline erosion control.
B)a type of wave-cut platform.
C)the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes.
D)the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level.
E)the distance over which the wind blows without interruption.

Question 42

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?

A)gravity waves
B)plunging breakers
C)spilling breakers
D)surf
E)swells

Question 43

The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to:

A)wave height.
B)wave height/wavelength.
C)wavelength.
D)wavelength/wave period.
E)wave period.

Question 44

Rogue waves tend to occur:

A)in areas where wind belts converge.
B)in coastal areas with weak sea breezes.
C)in upwelling zones.
D)only in the southern ocean below 60°S latitude.
E)where storm waves move against strong surface currents.

Question 45

The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:

A)wave height/wavelength.
B)wave height/wave period.
C)wavelength/wave height.
D)wavelength/2.
E)wavelength/20.

Question 46

The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:

A)equatorial doldrums.
B)horse latitudes.
C)polar regions.
D)trade winds.
E)westerlies.

Question 47

Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:

A)capillary waves.
B)rouge waves.
C)smaller waves.
D)swells.
E)tsunamis.

Question 48

The height of a wave depends upon:

A)fetch.
B)fetch and wind speed.
C)fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
D)wind duration.
E)wind duration and wind speed.

Question 49

Standing waves may be caused by:

A)constructive interference.
B)destructive interference.
C)wave diffraction.
D)wave reflection.
E)wave refraction

Question 50

The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a:

A)capillary wave.
B)seiche.
C)tide.
D)tsunami.
E)wind waves.

Question 51

In general the restoring force for most wind-generated waves is:

A)cohesion of water molecules.
B)gravity.
C)seismic activity.
D)surface tension of water molecules.
E)wind.

Question 52

A wave will begin to break when:

A)distance from shore < wavelength.
B)steepness = 1:7.
C)water depth = wave height.
D)water depth = wavelength/20.
E)wavelength < wave height.

Question 53

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:

A)water depth.
B)wave frequency.
C)wave height.
D)wave speed or celerity.
E)wavelength.

Question 54

A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:

A)the fetch.
B)wave height.
C)wavelength.
D)1/2 of the wavelength.
E)1/20 of the wavelength.

Question 55

Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation?

A)sea, surf, swell
B)sea, swell, surf
C)surf, swell, sea
D)surf, sea, swell
E)swell, sea, surf

Question 56

Waves converge on headlands due to:

A)constructive interference.
B)destructive interference.
C)wave diffraction.
D)wave reflection.
E)wave refraction.

Question 57

Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:

A)gravity waves.
B)plunging breakers.
C)spilling breakers.
D)surf.
E)swells.

Question 58

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:

A)decreases and its steepness decreases.
B)decreases and its wavelength increases.
C)increases and its frequency decreases.
D)increases and its wavelength decreases
E)increases and its wavelength remains the same.

Question 59

Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called:

A)capillary waves.
B)constructive waves.
C)surf.
D)swell.
E)wind waves.

Question 60

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:

A)water depth.
B)wave frequency.
C)wave height.
D)wave period.
E)wavelength.

Question 61

Describe what happens to a deep-water wave when it enters shallow water and eventually breaks.

Question 62

Describe the three different types of breakers and indicate the shoreline slope that produces each type. How is the energy of the wave distributed differently within the surf zone by the three types of breakers?

Question 63

The R/V Sea Serpent is in the Gulf of Mexico sampling gag grouper populations when it encountered the feeder bands from a tropical storm. Assuming that the R/V Sea Serpent is in deep water, calculate the wave speed and the wavelength of the storm-generated waves. The wave period (T)is 2.5 seconds.

Question 64

Describe the relationship between the following: wave height, wavelength, wave speed, and wave steepness.

Question 65

Compare and contrast wind-generated waves and internal waves. Include in your answer a discussion of the forces that generate each wave type and the properties of each wave type such as size, wavelength, and period.

Question 66

The R/V Spartina is cruising off the Georgia coast taking water and sediment samples when she encounters a storm. The ship's captain asks you to assist him by calculating the frequency of the waves and the wavelength. The wave speed is measured at 4 meters per minute. The wave period is determined to be 12 seconds. What is the wavelength and frequency of the storm swells encountered by the R/V Spartina?

Question 67

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.
A. plunging breaker
B) spilling breaker
C) surf
D) surging breaker
E) swell

Question 68

Compare shallow-water and deep-water waves.

Question 69

Using examples, explain how wave refraction is different from wave reflection.

Question 70

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.
A. longitudinal
B) orbital
C) progressive
D) spilling
E) transverse

Question 71

A tsunami may result from:

A)a large deep-water wave.
B)a storm surge.
C)an intense storm.
D)constructive wave interference.
E)tectonic activity on the seafloor.

Question 72

Briefly describe how tsunami are generated and include a description of characteristics such as wavelength and wave speed. Do tsunami behave as shallow-water waves? Why or why not and how does this influence their movement in shallow versus deeper water? What would the shoreline look like when the trough of tsunami arrives?

Question 73

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.
A. internal wave
B) capillary wave
C) gravity wave
D) wind
E) sea or sea area

Question 74

A tsunami is considered to be a:

A)capillary wave.
B)deep-water wave.
C)reflected wave.
D)refracted wave.
E)shallow water wave.

Question 75

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.
A. crest
B) height
C) length
D) period
E) trough