Exam 11: Coastal Hazards

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Plunging breakers are more common on west coast beaches because of the shape of the shoreline.

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Waves approaching an irregular shoreline speed up and break when they hit the headlands and slow down in the quiet beaches.

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Describe one soft stabilization method, how it works to minimize coastal erosion and the drawbacks of using it.

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Beach nourishment consists of artificially placing sand on beaches in the hope of constructing a positive beach budget, where more sand remains in storage than leaves in output.
Coastal zone bioengineering (CZB) is an emerging coastal defense that uses living or dead plants to assist in erosion control. CZB is a relatively new concept being tested.

Which type of wave would you expect to see on a barrier island on the East Coast of the United States?

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If you placed a small boat in waves in the open ocean (not near the shoreline) what would the motion of the boat be?

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The most effective hard stabilization is beach replenishment.

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Climate and tectonic processes are the main contributors to relative sea level change.

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From the perspective of someone standing in the water on the shoreline, explain what wavelength, wave height, and period are and how they might measure it for a wave.

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If you are wading on the edge of the ocean where the waves move in and out, you are probably in the swash zone.

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Relative sea level fluctuates constantly throughout the day.

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Which of the following is NOT a coastal hazard?

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At what depth do waves begin to slow down and "feel bottom"?

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Most of the sand moves parallel to the shoreline due to longshore currents.

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West coast coastlines have more cliffs and rocky shorelines due to their proximity to active convergent and transform boundaries.

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Describe what happens to waves as they hit the shoreline.

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Describe the fundamental differences in the topography and coastal hazards between East Coast U.S. and West Coast U.S. beaches.

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What is the effect of leveling the sand dunes on a barrier island?

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Swells refer to the trough of the wave.

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Explain the differences between eustatic and relative sea level.

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The main problem with engineering solutions to shoreline erosion is that it is expensive, but it generally solves the problem once stabilizations are put in place.

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