Exam 10: Coastal Environments and Humans

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Surf is made up of waves of translation.

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Waves with a long wavelength and long period are the most powerful.

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What is the most common solution applied to the problem of infilling of protected anchorages by sand carried by longshore currents?

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Dredging is commonly used. At Santa Barbara, a dredge works year round to remove sand from a growing spit at the mouth of the harbor.

What percentage of the U.S. population now lives less than one hour's drive from a coastline?

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The annual amount of littoral drift on the eastern seaboard of the United States is on the order of:

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Rounded cobbles at the foot of the cliff are indicative of an inactive sea cliff.

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Which hurricane caused the greatest loss of life in the U.S.?

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Wave energy tends to be focused on bays and away from points because of wave refraction.

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Concrete seawalls not only protect the land inboard of them, but also encourage sand accumulation.

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What would happen if a new shipping channel was cut through a barrier island on the east coast of the U.S. and lined with jetties where there is a strong southward longshore current?

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The largest death toll from a natural disaster in the United States (over 6,000 killed) was caused by:

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Are all of the effects of El Niño bad? Explain your answer.

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The natural seasonal pattern for a beach is from narrower and gravelly in the summer to wider and sandy in the winter.

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What is the most common cause of tsunamis?

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There were 61 deaths from the tsunami that hit Hilo, Hawaii, in 1960. Why were there so many deaths, considering that a tsunami warning had been issued and coastal warning sirens had been sounded?

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Active sea cliffs are characterized by steep faces and a lot of rock debris at their base.

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Long wavelength, regularly spaced waves that travel out of a source area and continue for long distances are called:

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As a rule, waves approach the shore straight on.

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The time it takes for two successive wave crests or wave troughs to pass is called the frequency.

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What is the term applied to a current that flows away from shore through the surf zone?

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