Exam 15: The Dynamic Ocean

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Briefly discuss the movement of sand on a beach environment. Include those factors, both natural and human- induced, that affect sand movement.

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Energy from breaking waves often causes large quantities of sand to move along the beach face and in the surf zone roughly parallel to the shore. Wave energy also causes sand to move perpendicular to the shore in a zig zag pattern that follows the longshore current. Sand movement is determined by natural wave energy and can be affected by human- induced stabilization factors such as construction of breakwaters, seawalls, and groins.

Horn Island is a small island about 10 km offshore from Biloxi, Mississippi, that is about 20 km long and 1 km wide. What are features like Horn Island called?

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D

When prevailing winds blow from onshore to offshore, what generally happens?

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A spring tide occurs_______ .

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A poleward- moving ocean current is_______ .

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Shorelines are temporary geologic and topographic features. Explain this statement.

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What is the difference between the coastline and shoreline?

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Currents within the surf zone that flow parallel to the shore are known as_______ currents.

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Neap tides occur about the time of_______ phase of the Moon.

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The turbulent water created by breaking waves is called_______ .

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_______ are short walls perpendicular to the beach constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand.

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_______ are old, uplifted wave- cut platforms.

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The largest daily tidal range occurs in association with _______ tides.

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Erosional retreat of an_______ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave- cut platform in the inland direction.

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The_______ effect causes ocean currents to be deflected to the right of their path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere.

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You are swimming on a beach in the surf. You leave your cooler and supplies on the beach, and after a half hour you swim back to shore, but your stuff isn't there. You look along the beach and see your cooler 200 m down the beach. How did that happen?

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Upwelling zones are frequently _______ .

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Rip currents are dreaded by surf swimmers everywhere. The standard recommendation for swimmers is if you get caught in a rip current, swim parallel to the shore. Why?

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Hurricane Sandy produced some of the greatest destruction along the New Jersey coast in communities situated along narrow strips of land between the beach and a coastal lagoon to the west. These communities were vulnerable because they were built on low- lying terrane of_______ .

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Which of the following is a tidal current?

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