Exam 12: Waves, Currents, and Coastlines

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At a regional level,shorelines on a tectonically passive margin commonly have

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An increase in ocean volume caused by thermal expansion is an example of eustatic sea-level change.

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Beach nourishment

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If you went swimming in the ocean and you swam out farther than the breakers,then floated,which of the following best describes the motion you undergo as incoming waves pass you by?

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A rogue wave is a wave that pulls a person out into the ocean rather than towards the shore.

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What is a passive margin?

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Which of the following hard stabilizations is built in an effort to protect boats in the harbor?

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A study of sea-cliff erosion in California indicated that people living inland from the coast

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If you placed a small boat in waves in the open ocean (not near the shoreline)what would the motion of the boat be?

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Which of the following parameters least influences the movement of a wave or wave crest?

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Why are East Coast beaches in North America wider and sandier in general than West Coast beaches?

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Describe,in general terms,how past glaciations have influenced relative sea level in Canada.

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Spilling breakers are common on which type of shoreline?

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Local sea level is rising more rapidly in Atlantic Canada than elsewhere in North America,contributing to high coastal erosion rates.Explain why.

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At a depth equal to their wavelength waves begin to feel the bottom.

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Longshore drift and beach drift are both processes associated with littoral transport.

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The swash zone is located seaward of the berm.

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A person decides to build a house on a bluff overlooking a beautiful lake.Explain why this might not be a good investment and how building the house makes the problem greater.

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On the west coast of North America,most sea-cliff erosion occurs during which season?

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If you were at the beach and you saw a groin field,how could you immediately tell the direction of longshore drift?

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