Exam 15: Waves Beaches and Coastal Erosion

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How can there be big waves at the coast when there is little or no wind?

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B

Wavelength is the distance between a wave's crest and its trough.

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What grows in the quiet waters of lagoons on the coastal side of barrier islands?

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C

Artificially moving large volumes of sand to the coast is called _______________.

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In addition to sand moving along shore, how is beach sand permanently lost to the beach system?

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Offshore barrier islands typically stand more than 4 meters higher than sea level.

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Barriers built out into the surf to trap sand from migrating down a beach are called _______________.

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On shallow, gently sloping coastlines, such as those in much of the southeastern United States, the beach both onshore and offshore becomes steeper landward.

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Which approach is NOT appropriate for addressing the high cost of beach replenishment?

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What is a rip current? Describe the shoreline's shape as a result of rip currents, and the cause of the distinct shape.

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By 2004, approximately one-fourth of the population of the continental United States lived in coastal counties.

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Explain the processes of wave refraction and longshore drift. What happens to sand as a result of these processes?

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Why does sea level rise during a near-shore storm?

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Which factor does NOT typically influence wave height?

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What happens to wave energy and erosion when riprap or seawalls are installed?

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The local rise in sea level during a storm is called the _______________.

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The _______________ of a wave is the time it takes for two crests to pass a point.

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Why does removing driftwood from a beach endanger the sea cliffs behind it?

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Waves approaching a steep coast encounter rocky points called _______________.

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The spraying of _______________ onto cliff walls is a temporary way to slow cliff loss and protect clifftop homes.

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